Fall/Winter 2016 Jewelry Trends
Fashion week. There’s so much going on, so let’s focus…on the jewelry of course. Here’s a roundup of my favorite trends and pieces from the Fall/Winter 2016 runways.
Let’s start with the obvious. Chokers are all over the place having come on strong for Spring/Summer 2016, a la Dior. This BuzzFeed article necklaces traces the choker’s history back to 1798, and you can be sure it doesn’t miss that stint the choker did in the 90s. We all remember those stretchy plastic tattoo chokers, but my personal favorite was the simple black velvet ribbon with a silver cross. Now that’s a throw back. I always thought ‘choker’ was such a morbid name, nonetheless, the chokers of Fall 16 are anything but sinister.
Thankfully, the trend gods have taken a pause from the so-called ‘statement necklace,’ but dare I say, the chokers from Chanel, Loewe, Peter Pilotto and MSGM take up enough neck real estate to unequivocally make a statement.
Conversely, Rosie Assoulin and Elie Saab showed simpler looks that pay homage to my 90s favorite. Gucci, Alexander Wang and Moschino went with the layered look, which I absolutely love, and Prada, Marchesa and Alexander Wang souped up the choker.
Stand out: Of all of the looks, the winner for me is Dries Van Noten. This plush black version with pearl pin has just the right amount of old and newness.
Next up are what I’m calling ‘cheek warmers,’ aka dangly earrings, except that these go way beyond just hanging from the ear, swaying in the wind. This earring knows what it wants and how to get it. It takes the cheek to dinner and then calls the next day.
While I’m more of a ring girl myself, one can’t help but be captivated by the bunches of pearls at Gucci and the cascading flowers at Rodarte. The articulated metals at Louis Vuitton have the sensibility of a chic weathervane, whispering to the ear what direction the wind is blowing. And the hair earrings at Chalayan conjure images of my younger self, playing hairdresser to my dolls and wishing I could glue that hastily lopped off ponytail back on. More on hair jewelry later.
Stand out: The winner here has to be Balenciaga. Demna Gvasalia’s debut collection was certainly cheeky, right down to the earrings. The punk popular safety pin earring has taken on many forms over the years, but these ones remind me of a life-sized version of the pins that hold the label onto a garment. And this collection proves that Balenciaga is certainly a label worth holding on to.
This earring is going solo and taking some serious ‘me time.’ Also not a new trend, but one that was still so prevalent on the runways it’s worth reviewing. If you can pull off this look without someone telling you that you lost an earring then you’ve struck style gold.
None of these earrings have anything in common besides the fact that there’s only one of them, but they’re pretty spectacular nonetheless. Sonia Rykiel picked up on the jumbo safety pin theme, while Anthony Vaccarello showed bejeweled creations with matching devil horns, but the minimal metals at Lemaire and Stella McCartney made a maximal statement.
Stand out: While Rodarte’s flowers are my runner up, I’ve been won over by Stella McCartney’s amazing long line number. It spears the ear and grazes the model’s shoulder. When you’re sporting just one of these, no one will question whether you forgot to put in your other earring.
I mean, Dior, enough said. Ok, yes we know, so it’s not Raf Simons, but this ear art is so damn good. It makes me wish that I had the guts to get my cartilage pierced when I was 17. And not only did they kill it with the earrings, but a ring for every finger? I’m in heaven. Ditto Valentino, Louis Vuitton and Gucci. It’s what jewelry dreams are made of. The wrist had its moment a few years ago with the ‘arm party,’ but rings are the new bracelets.
I’ve always been a fan of the layered necklace look, and Valentino does it perfectly here; the charms aren’t precious and the proportions play off of each other. Chanel of course took the layered necklace to another level as always. Long strands of pearls which would appear matronly anywhere else are perfectly fresh here.
Stand out: Dior is so on point here, but my favorite has to be Valentino’s hand full of micro bands. There’s something so simple yet captivating about it, it’s a definite stand out.
The big bracelet had a similarly oversized presence on the runway. Stacks at Louis Vuitton, Maison Margiela, Loewe and Hermès, went almost to the elbow for a modern day Nancy Cunard look (link).
High polish gold was the metal of choice at Saint Laurent, Balenciaga and Loewe, with the latter using a layered look that I’ve fallen in love with.
Stand out: The sleeve and the bracelet became bedfellows at Chanel, Loewe and Margiela where cuffs over sleeves were artfully executed, but my favorite has to be Hermès. Not only did they do the double cuff, but they also turned this casual stack into an extended sleeve, giving this fluid, floaty tunic the perfect amount of toughness.
Pendants were huge on the runway, literally. Prada and Loewe’s pendants could double as a handbag, not to mention those in-your-face feline faces #catsofthecatwalk.
Valentino’s sculptural molten metal is absolutely stunning in a macabre sort of way and I’m equally captivated by the simplicity at Hermès and the pseudo-pendant at Stella McCartney. While Esteban Cortazar’s is not technically a pendant, he gets marks for the most creative way of holding up a pair of overalls.
Stand out: No question. Dries has my heart here again. This totem pendant is unbelievable, from the colors, to the shapes to the stones. Mixed with a feather choker? Done.
Ok so they’re not technically trends, but they had to be celebrated. First off, Gucci: so much happening here and yet it all comes together looking like the intentionally crazy confection that it is. Case in point, this dress with built in necklace looks like you thought really hard about it, when on second glance, you didn’t think at all. And just when you think an aqua green trompe l’oeil cape is showstopper enough, a chain link cuff that feels more like a fingerless glove becomes its perfect complement.
I had to touch on Valentino’s sculptural necklaces again. This one has such a beautiful organic feel, while the gunmetal against the blood red stones give it such dramatic presence.
While the classic bejeweled beauties like this Marchesa stunner and Chanel’s bib necklace always catch me, I’m truly a fan of the minimal modernists. Take this tube necklace from Balenciaga, the stunning cone earrings at Ferragamo, Esteban Cortazar’s anklet redux and of course this genius long line, over the shoulder drop necklace at Stella McCartney.
And finally, Alexander McQueen, nearly everything in this collection had some sort of sparkle so it’s hard to choose just a few, but these were the standouts for me. A sort of punk influenced take on the lapel brooch, and this unbelievable gown, topped off with a charming cape chain and hair jewels stole the show.
And that’s a wrap, see you again in 6 months!